Places and Regions

ARHANGAI PROVINCE

Arhangai is the province due north of the beautiful and partly forested Hangai Mountains. It is the transition zone between the steppes and the taiga forests to the North. It is mostly coniferous with patches of birch. The territory spans the high part of the Hangai upland in the basin of the Tamir, Chuluut and Orhon Rivers, large tributaries to the Selenge River, which in turn is the largest tributary of Lake Baikal. It provides Baikal with half its waters. Lake Baikal is the world's largest (in volume), deepest and oldest freshwater lake.

Arhangai is one of the most traditional of Mongolian aimags (provinces). Herdsmen frequently offer you exchange of snuff bottles, a sort of ritual greeting. They harvest hay in August using wooden carts with wooden wheels, whereas in many other parts of Mongolia, the carts have been slightly modernized.

Horgo Natural Reserve

This is the area around Terhiin Tsagaan Lake which was formed when volcanic lava dammed the Sumin River, which then cut a deep canyon through the basalt rocks. The area has recently been declared a nature reserve. There are well preserved cones of extinct volcanoes, especially the Horgo crater itself, which we will be able to climb. It is spectacular scenery. There are large lava fields, with interesting characteristics. There are underground caves, and at some places holes have been created in the lava flow. One of these, the Yellow Dog Hell, is particularly large. And nearby is another one, with permanently cold and fresh water. It is so cold that it contains ice slabs throughout the summer months.

Jargalant

This is a soum (sub-province) in a remote part of Arhangai. It does not have an airfield. In the west and north, there are mighty rivers - like the Chuluut - blocking overland access. We will have to use suitable a suitable airfield to the south or east, probably Tariat or Tsetserleg, and then truck from there. There are other airfields, but their use is restricted and subject to approval from the air company, and a dispatcher will have to be sent overland to inspect the site.

Jargalant is as beautiful and traditional as anything else the rest of Arhangai province (aimag). It is a sub-province (soum) in northernmost Arhangai. We also operate into neighboring Tsetserleg sub-province (not to be confused with Tsetserleg town which is the province capital). Many of Nomadic Journeys staffs come from this particular area of Mongolia, and tourists have as yet to come there. It lacks spectacular attributes such as volcanic cones and lakes, but perhaps it is the cultural experience, that is the most interesting in Jargalant soum.

Arhangai abounds in historical monuments, most notable are the Uighur and Turkic stone inscriptions erected between 5-700 AD in honor of the Turkish ruler Bilgee Khan and his brother.

There are many herdsmen with their livestock in the Arhangai and we cooperate closely with our Mongolian host families who live in this province. A huge 40 percent of the entire livestock population in Arhangai are yaks, hence, we will use yak carts to transport our equipment. It is here, where we are able to live up to the principles of Ecotourism, by benefiting the well-being of local people. Our director's uncle, is the chief of the soum, and is directly responsible for health care and schools in the area. Nowadays, the souls have to fend for themselves, and there is hardly any cash available buying produce from outside.

HÖVSGÖL

Lake Hövsgöl National Park

Hövsgöl (Hubsugul) is the twin lake of Baikal and is located completely within the taiga life zones of northern Mongolia. Hövsgöl is the second largest lake in the country, after Uvs Nuur. It lies in a narrow basin of alpine peaks which soar over a mile above its clear surface waters.

Hövsgöl is extremely transparent, so pure you can actually drink it. Normally you can see to a depth of 16-18 meters and even to 25 meters (82 ft). The lake is the deepest in Mongolia (262 m/860 ft). It is nearly 640 km long (400 miles). For Europeans it is a remarkable experience to hike around this large pristine body of water, and rarely see any boats, ships or any activity on the lake itself. No wonder, Lake Hövsgöl was recently declared Mongolia’s first ever national park.

You will reach the Hövsgöl province by flight to Mörön. After lunch in the local hotel, and possibly a short visit to the local Natural History Museum we will transfer north for about six hours by a simple bus, or jeeps (4 hrs).

From Hatgal we will continue through the forests and mountains of the western shore, and we will reach our spectacular base camp by the shore.

The Darhat Depression

This fantastically beautiful place with some 200 lakes is the lake district of Mongolia. It is a treeless steppe completely surrounded by the taiga life zone areas bordering Siberia and Tuva. A remarkable nomadic people called the Dukha (Tsaatan) live here during the winter time. They are reindeer breeding-nomads. They live in the high taiga forest zones and come down the valleys during the winter.

They are reindeer herdsmen. They also hunt sable for their valued furs. There are just a few Dukha people who also have animistic beliefs. Shamanism has survived to this day in the northern areas of Hövsgöl province. The Dukha speak a completely different language, which essentially is the related to the Tuvan urianhai, hence a Turkic language. Just 14 families are fully nomadic moving every 2-3 weeks year round. Their children do not go to school (which is unusual in Mongolia). They live in dwellings that resemble tepees or Lapp tents. Superficially they seem related to the Scandinavian Lapps (Sami people). 

The Darhat, a Mongol speaking ethnic group, also live by herding reindeer, but they also engage in other traditional Mongolian activities. Another activity in the Tsagaan Nuur area is of course fishing. Taimen come in impressive sizes here, and the fishing is best in September.

To reach the Tsagaan Nuur area is rather complicated. They choice is a long overland trip or helicopter. It is possible to fly on scheduled flight to Mörön, and travel in Russian jeeps from there. Two days is required. It also possible to ride from Lake Hövsgöl across the Horidal Saridag Mountain Range through the Jiglig Pass.  

THE HENTII WILDERNESS

The Hentii (Khentii) is a mountain wilderness area only 40 km from the capital which stretches all the way to the Russian border. It lies within the Töv and Hentii provinces. The Hentii hinterlands are completely uninhabited and very rich in wildlife. To be in the Hentii wilderness with a Mongol trapper, is like an in the Alaskan wilderness.

In the Hentii it is possible to spot both bears and wolves. You are likely to see wild boar, maral deer, marmots, lemmings and moose. In one specific area where we usually camp, the wolves howl almost every night. 

The lower areas of the Hentii Mountains are near Ulaanbaatar, and the Terelj National Park. Beyond the main Hentii Mountains is complete wilderness, devoid of human habitation. Due to the lack of pastures, it is unsuited for the livestock breeders. This wilderness area is difficult to penetrate, and rich in wildlife. It extends all the way north to the Russian frontier.

There is some human habitation in the patches of steppe in-between the mountain ridges and forests on the edges of the Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area. This area is exceptionally scenic, yet to some extent near the capital. In the lower areas of Hentii, we can use yak and horse carts to transport luggage. 

This area is completely covered by deciduous and coniferous forests. Valleys with marshy boggy areas make the use of yak carts further north sometimes impossible. It is rare for anyone to venture into these remote areas in the summer months, and pack horses will have to be used. 

Nomadic Journeys organize Yak cart supported treks in the Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area, which is the interior zones of the more famous Terelj National Park. We also operate a low impact ger camp at Jalman Meadows on the Tuul River, midaway between Terelj proper and the remote Hagiin Har Lake (Hagiin Black Lake). The Hagiin Har Lake is the source of the Tuul River, which flows past Ulaabaatar. 

Nomadic Journeys also have an exclusive concession for sport fishing and tourism use of the buffer zone area of the Khan Khentii Strictly Protected Area along the Onon River at Batshireet. We operate rafting trips on the Onon River and helicopter airlift to the upper sources is possible.

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